The first step in this phase, is to make sure you have a clean working area. Clean off a table or work bench, make sure there are no drinks or liquid that can get on the componets, and wear a short-sleeved shirt (to avoid static).
Once you have an area set aside, you can start the build.
First, you need to open the case to expose the inside (of course).
These mounts are needed for two reasons. First, they keep the Motherboard from making contact with the Metal Case, and second they provide air-flow between the back of the case and the bottom of the Motherboard.
With the Motherboard being the "Mother of All Boards" you would think you would install it first. And that is common practice.
But through our experience we find it eaiser to do it a bit differently. Once you have the motherboard installed, you will then be working from inside the case (sometimes a bit cramped).
However, with the Motherboard exposed, you can access the CPU socket, and RAM Slots much eaiser. So we are going to do that first.
Remove the motherboard from the box, and take it out of its static Bag. These Bags are great because although they are made with a type of plastic, they repel static. So causing ESD Damage (Electro Static Discharge) to the componets is almost eliminated.
Take a Towel and fold it twice and place it on your work surface. Take the Static Bag, place it on the towel, and finally place your Motherboard on the Bag. In the coming steps you will be placing moderate pressure on the Motherboard. Having the towel serves as a cushion.
Now, installing the CPU:
There is a little "lever" on the CPU socket that moves up and down. Up is in the "Open" position, and Down is closed (or locked). Make sure it is in the UP Position.
Next, CAREFULLY remove the CPU from its box, and protective plastic case. Be careful not to touch the pins on the underside of the CPU.
While looking at the pins, identify "Pin 1". Pin 1 is usually identified on the CPU with a little arrow pointing to it.
Line up Pin 1 on the CPU with Pin 1 on the CPU Socket. The CPU socket is what is known as a "ZIF" Socket, or Zero Insertion Force. This means that you do not have to use ANY force whatsoever in order to get the CPU into the socket. If it does not drop into place, DO NOT FORCE IT. Doing so can bend the pins, and then your hosed.
If it appears the pins are lined up correctly, but it is not dropping into the socket, you may not have Pin 1 on the CPU lined up to Pin 1 on the Motherboard. Try turning the CPU until it drops into place.
Once it drops into place, close the lever into the "Locked" position.
Next, you want to install the CPU Heatsink & Fan.
The FAN should come already attached to the Heatsink. The CPU Socket has little notches around its base where the Heatsink can attach itself. You may also notice a substance at the bottom of the Heatsink. This is Thermal Tape. When the CPU heats up, this tape will turn into a kind of putty. This putty seals any microscopic cracks and divots in the surface of the heatsink and CPU. With a good seal, there will be good heat transfer from the CPU to the Heatsink. This is a good thing, because we would rather our Heatsink get hot than the CPU.
If your Heatsink does Not have Thermal Tape, you will need to get some and apply it before going to the next step.
CAREFULLY place the heatsink on the top of the CPU. "Square up" the corners, but don't put any pressure on the CPU yet. Once you have it Squared, you can latch the Heatsink in place.
There are little notches on the CPU Socket used for this purpose. Latch one side of the Heatsink First. This will be easy, but the other side will "Totter" into the air.
This is where you want to be VERY Careful, you can put a little pressure on the CPU at this point. You will actually need a little pressure in order to properly secure the heatsink. But when you do, make sure it is EVEN pressure.
Make sure that the Heat Sink stays flat on the CPU and that the pressure on the CPU is even. If the Heatsink lifts up on one side, or puts too much pressure on one side of the CPU, the CPU can crack, and once again your Hosed.
So, with one side latched, apply a little pressure to the top of the Heatsink/Fan to make sure it does not move, then latch the other side.
Heatsink designs vary, but the element that attaches the device to your CPU should be universal.
With that you need to attach the CPU Fan's Power Cord to the Motherboard. The Power Cord connects to two (or three) small pins on the Motherboard. The Pins stick straight up and are on a white base. It should be marked "CPU FAN". There is a "Guard" on one side of the CPU Fan connection base, so you can only put this in one way.
If you have trouble finding it, consult the documentation that came with the Motherboard. There should be some diagrams to show you where the CPU Fan power connector is.
You CAN install the FAN by tapping into the Power Supply using a provided "Power Dongle". But use the connector on the motherboard when you can. Doing so will supply your PC with information, such as tempature and Fan Speed. Attaching it to the powersupply will negate that.
With that, your CPU is installed!
Next, the RAM.
The RAM is possibly the eaisest part to install.
If you look at the gold connectors at the bottom of the RAM Stick, you will notice a few notches. Usually one notch in the Center, and another that is off-center. The Motherboard also has notches to match. This is to ensure the RAM cannot be installed incorrectly.
This motherboard comes with 4 RAM Slots, Numbered Dimm 0 - Dimm 3 (sometimes the first slot is "Dimm1", and goes to Dimm4)
We have two sticks of Ram, 512mb each. So we will install them into Dimm 0 and Dimm 1. This way they will both work off the same channel.
At either end of the Dimm Slots on the Mother Board, there are these little locking clamps that move left and right. Move them so they go away from the Slot. Here they are in the "Open" position, and you can install the RAM.
When installing the RAM, line up the notches as mentioned before, and insert the RAM. RAM does not use a "ZIF" connection, so you WILL have to use a bit of force to get them in. Once they are in place the locking clamps should automaticly come up, and lock within notches on the edges of the RAM Sticks.
It may not be a bad idea to go ahead and push the locking clamps into the side of the RAM one more time to make sure they are secure.
Once that is done, your RAM is installed!
Next article, we will mount the Motherboard to the Case, and install our Disk Drives.
Part: 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, Final
Most computer cases will have pre-drilled holes on the panel where you will mount the Motherboard. However, you will need to install the Metal Riser Mounts first (usually made of Brass).
